Gen 3
37s from the factory
Manufacturer figures unless noted. Used pricing is a 2026 clean-truck range and moves with the market.
| Engine | 3.5L High-Output EcoBoost V6, twin-turbo |
|---|---|
| Power | 450 hp @ 5,850 rpm |
| Torque | 510 lb-ft @ 3,000 rpm |
| Transmission | 10R80 ten-speed automatic |
| Rear suspension | Five-link coil with 24-inch Watt’s link and trailing arms |
| Shocks | Fox 3.1 Live Valve internal bypass, remote reservoir |
| Suspension travel | 14.0 in front / 15.0 in rear |
| Standard tires | 35" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 315/70R17 |
| 37 Performance Package | 37x12.50R17 KO2 on beadlock-capable forged wheels |
| Ground clearance | 12.0 in on 35s / 13.1 in on 37s |
| Approach / breakover / departure | 31.0° / 22.7° / 23.9° on 35s |
| Differentials | Torsen front limited-slip, electronic locking rear, 4.10 gears |
| Curb weight | ~5,860 lb |
| Payload / towing | ~1,400 lb / 8,200 lb |
| Fuel tank | 36.0 gal |
| EPA | 15 city / 18 hwy / 16 combined |
| 0–60 mph | ~5.1 sec |
| Drive modes | Normal, Sport, Slippery, Tow/Haul, Off-Road, Baja, Rock Crawl |
| Exhaust | Dual with active valves, four selectable modes |
| Base MSRP, 2026 | ~$81,000 |
Only the changes that move the buying decision. Trim shuffles and paint codes are not on this list.
The leaf springs are gone. The five-link coil rear with a Watt’s link is the single biggest change in Raptor history and it shows up everywhere — washboard, whoops, and the highway. The 37 Performance Package makes this the first factory half-ton on 37s.
No mechanical changes. Avalanche and the other new paint codes arrived, and the 37 Package availability improved after a rough first year of allocations.
The standard truck is unchanged mechanically, but the R arriving above it reshuffled how the base Raptor is optioned and priced. Equipment groups and graphics packages moved around.
New grille with Ford block lettering, revised Fox 3.1 Live Valve tuning with additional compression zones, a 12-inch digital cluster with a 12-inch SYNC 4 screen, and Trail Turn Assist. If you are paying refresh money, verify you are getting the refresh truck.
New colors and minor equipment shuffles. The 37 Performance Package remains the only option that changes what the truck can do.
No meaningful mechanical change. Cross-shop a leftover 2025 against a new 2026 on price alone.
Documented failures and complaints, with the symptom, the affected years, the fix that holds, and what it costs in 2026 money.
Run the list in order, in person, with the truck cold. Anything you skip here you pay for later.
Beadlock-capable forged wheels with 37x12.50R17 KO2s is the real package. Somebody bolting 37s to a 35 truck is not the same thing and is not worth the same money.
Watt’s link and trailing arm clunk shows up exactly here. Cheap to fix if you know, annoying to chase if you do not.
The refresh changed the front end, the shock tuning and both screens. Sellers price 2023s like 2024s and hope you do not know.
Live Valve faults are cheap to fix but they tell you the truck has been in deep dust or deep water.
A truck that has never taken an OTA has either been offline or has a module that refuses them. Both are worth asking about.
The coil rear is fantastic in the dirt and merely adequate under a tongue-heavy trailer. A tow truck has worn bushings sooner.
Rock strikes on the skid are fine. Bent A-arms or a creased valance mean it hit something with real speed on it.
The phaser problem is smaller on Gen 3, not absent. Ten seconds costs you nothing.
Stages, not a shopping list. Each one assumes the stage before it is done, because doing them out of order is how people buy the same part twice.
The Gen 3 leaves the factory better sorted than any Raptor before it. Learn what it actually does before you spend money fixing a problem it does not have.
Going 35 to 37 on a Gen 3 needs no lift. It is the one change that meaningfully alters clearance and float, and the chassis was designed around it.
Keep the factory sensors — the ADAS suite on this truck is expensive to relocate and worse to lose. Buy a bumper that keeps them.
Storage is the mod nobody photographs and everybody uses. Lighting is the one you notice the first night you leave the trailhead late.
Same story as Gen 2: the 3.5 HO gives up 60 to 90 hp for a tune. Also the same warranty exposure, and you will still be under factory coverage on most of these trucks.
The factory Fox 3.1 Live Valve setup is genuinely good. If you cannot articulate what it is doing wrong at speed, you are not ready to replace it.
34 catalogued parts confirmed to fit this truck, and 2 registered Gen 3 builds running them.
Remote reservoirs pull heat out of the fluid on long, fast descents where the factory Fox setup starts to fade. Compression and rebound both adjust independently, so ride height and damping get tuned instead of guessed at.
Bolt-on adjustable coilovers that reset ride height and add real compression control without cutting anything on the truck. Not a King or Fox 3.0 in the whoops, but for street and moderate trail use most owners cannot tell the difference.
Replaces the factory rubber bushings with heim-jointed uniballs for more travel and zero bind at full droop. Only worth it once a longer-travel coilover is already on the truck and the stock arms become the limiting factor.
Three tunable bypass zones instead of one valve, so the shock stays soft over small chatter and firms up hard right before the bump stop. Rear-specific tuning matters more on Gen 3's coil rear than most owners expect going in.
Softens the transition into the factory bump stop so big hits do not translate straight into the frame rail. Cheap enough that most desert-focused builds add it in the same order as the shock upgrade.
The default tire for a reason: predictable on pavement, tough sidewall, and every shop in the country stocks them. Sizing up from the factory 35 needs a speedometer recalibration, and the tread is not the strongest choice in mud or deep sand.
The KO2 replacement with a stiffer sidewall and better wet braking, aimed at trucks running higher speeds off-road. It costs more than the KO2, and any size change from stock still calls for a recalibration, not a tune.
A hybrid tread that splits the difference between an all-terrain and a mud-terrain without the mud-terrain highway noise. Wears faster than the KO2 in exchange for more bite in loose dirt, and a size increase needs the speedometer recalibrated.
Quieter on the highway than the KO2 with tread life that holds up over a full season of daily driving. Recalibrate the speedometer after the swap if the new size is larger than stock, since a tune does not touch that number.
A true beadlock ring holds the tire on the bead at single-digit psi, which matters the moment air pressure drops for sand or rock. Heavier than a standard wheel, and the outer ring needs a periodic bolt torque check.
A forged-look cast wheel with enough backspacing flexibility to clear big brakes and still tuck under stock fenders. The most common wheel swap in the registry for anyone not running a beadlock.
Keeps the factory radar and fog lights intact while adding real approach angle and a recovery point rated for an actual pull. The most-installed front bumper in the registry for Gen 2 and Gen 3 owners.
Full-width steel replacement that trades the factory step and parking sensors for tire clearance and an integrated hitch. Departure angle goes up noticeably, and the tailgate combo most owners run alongside it keeps overall weight in check.
Quarter-inch aluminum from the front diff back to the transfer case, replacing the factory plastic that cracks on the first real rock strike. Not a mod anyone brags about, until the day it saves an oil pan.
Most owners do not think about rock sliders until the day a rocker panel finds a boulder at the wrong angle. The weld-on version from the same catalog is stronger, if there is a shop willing to do it properly instead of bolting it up in the driveway.
A dedicated 3/16-inch plate for the transfer case only, for owners who want protection without the labor of a full skid kit. Bolts to existing mounting points in under two hours with hand tools.
Baja Designs' flagship bar, and the one most cross-country desert racers actually run because the beam pattern does not wash out at highway speed. It needs a bumper or roof mount rated for the weight and the amp draw.
The pod size fits almost any bumper or A-pillar mount without cutting anything, and the sport-series LED is bright enough to matter. It is the entry point for most owners' first lighting upgrade.
Drops directly into the factory fog light housing location with a plug-and-play harness, no cutting or drilling required. A clean upgrade from the factory halogens that keeps the truck's stock look intact.
Round pod format with more raw lumen output than the Squadron series, usually run as A-pillar or bumper-mounted spot lights. Expensive for a pair, but the throw distance is real, not a spec-sheet number.
Bluetooth-controlled RGB pods mounted under the rockers and frame rails, mostly for visibility while working under the truck at night. Not a performance mod, and nobody in the registry claims it is.
Good for 60 to 90 horsepower and a transformed throttle response on the 3.5 EcoBoost, with no hardware required. It is also the fastest way to trip a warranty flag, so know the dealership's stance before flashing it.
More airflow and a noticeably louder turbo spool, though the dyno gains alone do not justify the price. Most owners buy it for the sound and because it pairs cleanly with a tune.
Removes the factory catalytic restriction immediately downstream of the turbos, which matters most once a tune is already pushing extra boost. Needs a retune to avoid a check engine light, and it is not legal for street use in emissions states.
Needs a winch-capable bumper to mount to, so budget for that first if the factory bumper is still on the truck. Spooled with synthetic rope instead of steel cable, it saves real weight over the front axle.
A shackle mount that keeps a synthetic winch line from folding back on itself at a sharp hook angle, which is the actual failure point on most budget setups. Cheap enough that skipping it does not save any real money.
Airs 37s back up from trail pressure in a few minutes instead of the twenty a portable compressor takes. Needs an under-hood or in-bed mounting location and a clean 12-volt run straight to the battery.
Half the weight of the factory steel cable, and it does not store the same kind of energy if it fails under load. Pair with a proper thimble and soft shackle, not the steel hook that came on the truck.
More bolster and a harness bar pass-through than the factory seat offers, which matters the moment the truck starts landing anything. Requires the factory seat's power and heat wiring to be adapted or deleted entirely.
Digitally molded to the factory floor pan so mud and snowmelt stay off the carpet instead of pooling at the edges. Not exciting, but it is the single most common first purchase in the registry after the truck itself.
Bolts in behind the rear seat to anchor a proper 4 or 5-point harness, which the factory seatbelt geometry was never built for. Removing the rear seat is part of the install, so back-seat capacity goes with it.
Two weatherproof drawers rated to carry gear on top and inside, without a bed liner underneath cutting into usable height. Heavy on its own before anything gets loaded into it, so factor that into the payload math.
Low-profile aluminum rack that mounts to the factory roof points without drilling, built to hold a rooftop tent or a light bar without flexing. Lighter than a Front Runner rack, with less usable deck space to show for it.
Carpet-backed liner that stops gear from sliding around and does not clang like a spray-in or drop-in plastic liner. Traps moisture if it does not get pulled and dried out after a genuinely wet trip.